craft, Mary Frances sewing, Uncategorized

Re-lining a Coat: part 3

When we left off I’d sewn the lining and interlining.

The next step is bagging the lining. I wish I could easily explain this. When constructing the lining you leave one section of a side seam-open so you can eventually pull the whole coat through it.

Here is a Pintrest page I made to pin “How to bag a lining” tutorials.
You keep the coat right-side out and put the in-side out lining over that, so that the right-side of the lining is against the right side of the jacket fabric.

Then you sew allll around that edge.


The bottom section is the trickiest. This I did by hand. I used the old lining to show me how far up the lining to stitching to get the right hang.


Here is that gap in the lining and an action shot of turning everything right-side out.


I attempted to sew the sleeve lining at the same time… even though that didn’t make sense to me. Indeed, I had two sleeve loops when I turned everything inside out. Fail. Unpicked the seam.

I left some areas of the hem un-stitched because I had to reach inside the coat and do some tricky anchoring of the interlining. At some points it had to attach loosely to a structural lining inside the coat. I couldn’t take a picture of this process because I did it mostly by feel, trying on, fixing. For most re-lining process this wont be an issue.

I then carefully hand-stitched the sleeve lining into place using the prior lining AND basting stitches I’d used to mark the inside of the sleeve when I’d removed the  lining.

After hand finishing things I put in all on the dress-form to double check how everything hung and  to press the lining where needed. There are some areas that aren’t perfect but..its a lining.



Now, in the process of this all I removed the fur from my jacket. Removal and replacement of the fur (with Faux instead of real) and fixing the closures comes next!

craft, sewing, Uncategorized

Re-lining a Coat Extra: CRAFTSMAS IS COMING.

Christmas is over in Japan. LONG LIVE CRAFTSMAS!

Craftsmas is the time I have between school semesters where my only obligations are dance and socializing and making stuff. But while Japan is open for Christmas, it shuts down for at least 4 days for the new year, so one must plan ahead for smaller specialty shops and supplies.

I started my preparations for Craftsmas on Christmas morning. I woke up in Ikebukuro, at a place called Book and Bed, where I’d slept behind a bookshelf in a book-oriented hostel and hangout.  Like a Christmas Book Elf!

Christmas morning, up from the shelf, I  headed to Shinjuku for two reasons: Art supplies (for a project yet to be revealed) and fake fur for my jacket. I scored my art supplies at Sekaido from whence I’d once hauled home a roll of heavy stock paper larger than me.

I drank coffee, my first coffee of the day, AFTER stop one… THAT is how focused I was, across from the Gothic Isetan inexplicably Christmased up with design motifs of African Wax Prints.


At 10:00 AM Shinjuku is about to awaken.

At 10:20 I was alongside other heavy sewists and crafters waiting for the two 6-7floor buildings of Okadaya to open. One building is fabric the others are notions.


These are my people.

The fake fur tape and the fake fur bolts did not excite me. Onwards to Nippori where Japan’s Fabric District is!

Which is how I came home with TWO different fake furs. Nippori had SOOOO many real fur options that it made sticking to my fake-fur mission difficult. None of the white fake furs appealed to me so I’m trying out a brown-gray and long black. I may hunt used clothing stores for used fake fur…if none of this works.

I’ll have to make a bunch of fake fur things now. I scored major amounts of fake fur.

And this was in Nippori station.


Heading home to start the CRAFTING.

craft, sewing, Uncategorized

Coat re-lining part one.

It’s Christmas eve! Soon I shall join other assorted foreigners in Tokyo for a cosy celebration but right now it’s time for why I love winter break.


Don’t worry, I have more posts about the Mary Frances book but somethings need to come first.

I was recently looking at winter coats and finding nothing that is stylish, fits well, and is in my price range. So It’s time to fix up a stylish, well fitting vintage coat I’ve been wearing for years.

I bought it in my hometown of Madison, I have no idea how many years ago. It was originally made by a now-defunct Madison company.

You can see by the labels what era we’re talking about. This coat is older than I am for sure.

The lining is trashed.  In some areas it seems to have simply vanished. I obviously tried to repair sections long before my skills were up to it.

The fabric covering the snaps has faded from black to red-ish purple. The clasp covers need more stones. And the fur (yes, I know) has worn out in areas. I need to replace it all with fake fur so it’s updated and I feel more comfortable wearing it.

This will be my first time re-lining a coat but people have told me it’s easy.  Friday, in transit from my last school day of the year to my last school-meeting of the year I stopped into a mid-level fabric store. I didn’t find any lining that excited me..and then I saw a used kimono shop with a few items marked down to 1000yen (about 10$ USD).

Lining fabric!

The great thing about kimonos is they break down into easy to use giant rectangles of fabric quickly. I am totally going back to that small store. I’ve since broken this down into parts and ironed the fabrics.

Then I got to work removing my lining.


Interlining is a fabric added to a garment, between the lining and the outer fabric.

I had no idea about interlining before I opened up my coat. This project just got a bit more complex.


This is just a shot of everything airing out on my balcony.

I carefully unpicked the seam at the center of the back of the lining and slit the interlining in the same area, cutting my project in half. One half will be used to make the pattern and one half remains intact to make sure I understand how to reassemble everything prior to attaching to the coat.

This is half of the garment on my dress form.


And i carefully seam ripped, pressed, and labeled parts of the deconstructed half. I also picked up wool fabric on my way home from a studio end-of-year party for the interlining.

And that marks my first steps of re-lining and restoring.