My friend Ebony rocks. She really does. You should go check out the looks she serves up on Instagram. I’ll wait.
I can’t even tell you how essential she is to my life here. Not since art school have I had someone in my neck of the woods who was not only an amazing friend but who also makes s stuff all the time. All. The. Time.
I can talk shop with and bounce inspiration back and forth with her. I’ve helped her stain her couch black so it’d be more goth. She’s my year-round source of Halloween baubles.
She has her own impressive fabric haul. From time to time she’s given me fabric she realizes will be put to use by me before she ever will use it. Like..three meters of this.
Yeah. Take that in. Take it ALL in. That’s a lot of lot going on.
And for a year she’s been waiting to see what it will become.
well, you can’t get really complicated with a fabric like that so I turned to a simple pattern I’d modified until it fit. 2 or 3 years ago I made three dresses with variations based on Vogue Patterns Misses Jacket Dresses-V8146
And this would be no exception! SIMPLE CLEAN LINES!
But I wasn’t going to do all the insane pattern matching of the Maiko/Geisha patterned dress just so I could have pockets. I made EXTERNAL POCKETS with APPLIQUE!
I’ve had someone ask me if I made the dress and then ask me if I also made the appliques. I want to live in their world because it’s a world where ready-made appliques of octopuses drinking coffee and eating cheese MIGHT EXIST.
I’ve since slightly darted the neckline so it doesn’t gape.
Lemme tell you, this is a dress that makes people smile.
Back in America print and magazines are languishing but in Japan there’s a magazine for everything.
There is even a four-times a year Bellydance Japan magazine… and I contributed heavily to their MOOK about how to create bellydance costumes.
So, it was a dangerous discovery when I realized I could buy used copies of old “Dolly * Dolly” ドーリィ*ドーリィ magazine/books (colloquially called MOOK) on Amazon Jp. It contains doll reviews, how-to articles on constructing doll items, doll clothing patterns, and various features about different aspects of doll life.
And Dolly Dolly Vol.4 from 2004 had multiple articles on doll trunks so I started justifying purchases there.
Disclaimer: I do not have a scanner at home. These scans were done at my local convenience store when I was tired, which is why some areas of the page are cut off.
I am also not a translator. I’m doing this for my Japanese practice but my Japanese translation style is more “getting the jist of it” than it is “accurate”… so if you have feedback please present it with kindness. I want to learn more but I don’t wish to be scared off.
The first article features work and an introduction by doll artist Ryo Hada. I can’t find much on 波田亮 . The listed web page https://www.ryo-hada.com seems to be out of commission. It seems they also go by the name Aquirax Kuroda now and create a lot of cat-related art.
Original Japanese text follows English.
Dream doll trunk
“There is a story about the marten’s pelt attached to this overcoat”
“There’s also a trunk, let’s open it and see”
What came from within were various doll costumes so resplendent they dazzled the eyes.
Dance clothing, walking clothing, tea time outfits, items trimmed in green lace and silk stockings! And then chokers, muffs, gloves, hats and lace fans and such!
The above quote is attributed to Frances Burnette, translation into Japanese by Ayame Mizushima, from the 7th chapter of A Little Princess published by blah blah blah (sorry)
It’s a famous scene from ”A Little Princess”, which I’ve ecstatically read time and time again since I was a young girl.
More than the story of Sarah Crewe, the generous protagonist of high birth by chance, or the scene in which Sarah gets her famous doll Emily, I was enraptured by the doll present itself.
The elegantly shimmering silk cape, the meticulously folded skirt with its hemmed pleats and petticoat edged with lace shipped from France. To be spellbound by a trunk packed to the brim with precisely made clothing and accessories, all miniature sized.
And there’s also our small friend’s wardrobe, and there’s a room, and there’s a secret universe all amazingly packed tightly into this dream doll trunk. Even now as a grown up, it thrills the deepest reaches of my brain.
It can honestly be said this is an homage to A Little Princess.
(Smaller Blurb)
Magic of Antique Doll Unsolved magic
Doll artist, Ryo Hada’s runk case is a two tiered construction. The lower section has a set place for the doll: neck, waist, arms and legs are secured. First of all, the size of the doll determines what sort of basket is proper, various sizes of dolls will affect construction methods. (The pictures doll is approximately 40cm)
From grandmother to mother to daughter, European antique dolls have been handed down for generations. Within this doll trunk are dresses from various eras as if to give an impression of the history of clothing. It’s this sort of essence of antique dolls that artist Namda is trying to create in their doll trunks. The doll begins with a traditional French peasant costume and goes until 1980’s era inspired clothing with her 5 outfit set, the sort of doll that would be treasured in any European home. Making it a trunk set that passes beyond its eras and onward into timelessness/eternity
Ryo Hada’s doll has not yet been given a name. The reason is because “I believe that the doll is completed only when the person who has purchased the doll has given it a name .” These aren’t just decorations or disposable items. Position them in a central location “ so you can continue to get the most out of them through playing.” If they spend their days being loved they become exceptional special dolls.
In the left hand corner of the page there is an additional blurb about awards given to and exhibitions including Ryo Hada from 1996-2004 but I was tired so I’m ending it here for today.
I’m taking my Sunday to make a free tutorial. Why am I working for free? I’ve benefited from SO many online free tutorials that I’d like to give back.
Please don’t hesitate to give me feedback on what needs to be tweeked…or show me pictures if you use this.
Disclaimer: No one wants to read a story before a tutorial, they want to get the info, so my struggles will not be documented but know THEY EXISTED.
WHY?
Disney’s Animator’s Collection Moana has a different body size from the other Animator’s collection dolls. She’s wider in the tummy and chest. This is adorable but renders closely fitted dresses the other dolls wear too small. That’s why I made this. Her size shouldn’t limit play.
Here are links to PDF’s I made with the bare bones pattern. Let me know if there are issues with my links or PDF’s. I don’t have a printer at home.
The seam allowance is 1cm. I use centimeters in this tutorial because I live in Japan and it’s what I use everyday.
The pattern shows the front panels of the wrap dress and the back. Not pictured is the skirt because you’ll just be cutting a rectangle 62cm wide and 13cm long.
Let’s get started
Top: I’m using the red polka dot fabric for the outer fabric and the light blue for the lining. You don’t need to use a different colored fabric for the lining.
The reason I line these is because it will protect the raw seams. These dolls are for kids and kids are dirty. The things they play with need to be washable.
Skirt:
Cut a rectangle 62cm wide and 13cm long.
I didn’t have fabric long enough so I added some to the right hand side with a french seam. Realistic tutorial. If you’re adding 20cm or less to get the 62cm length, the seam will be hidden by the wrap.
Before you start sewing
When was the last time you changed you machine’s needle? If you can’t remember, do it now. Needles wear out quickly. It’s a good to get in the habit of changing them each time you start on a project.
Also
Have you read through this WHOLE thing first? Free tutorials don’t always flow well or give you the information when YOU need it. This one, for example, doesn’t even tackle the notions you’ll use until the very end…because I illustrate three different ways to finish the dress.
If you use the last method “Out of Order Mixed Method” you’ll want to read it before you start putting everything together. I’ll put a OOMM* astrix where it might be helpful
OK! Constructing the Top
Join the front of the wrap top to the back at the shoulders.
Press those seams with an iron. Then, open them and press them open.
Snip the edges to reduce bulk.
Multiple layers of cotton fabric on a human body is negligible but on a doll they quickly add to bulk.
Now to stitch the lining to the outer fabric.
Put the right sides of the fabric together and pin or clip to hold in place.
OOMM* if planning to use OOMM, insert your ribbons between the fabric before stitching.
Sew the neckline AND around the arm holes.
Liberally snip away triangles before turning it right side out. I could have done more triangles.
Now turn the top right side out by pulling the wrap/front through the shoulder openings and out the back.
I’m using a special tool to hook the fabric and pull it through. This isn’t essential but makes life easier.
Turned right-side out BEFORE pressing.
Get your iron and press that out.
Now it’s time to join under the arm holes.
use your iron to get inside the lower part of the arm holes where you’re going to join them together and press those seams open. Then, pin the lining to lining and the main fabric to main fabric (right sides together) as seen below.
And sew.
Once you’ve stitched under both arm holes press those seams open.
Snip to reduce bulk.
Now press your lovely top and cheer for yourself.
Mid-Project Check-in
If you’re feeling hungry or tired and are trying to work through it as not to lose your sewing mojo. STOP. Eat or rest or whatever. If you’re tired or hungry you’re going to make mistakes. THEN return to your project. I did. That’s why you get that picture. Spring is coming!
Skirt Construction.
Fold the edges the fabric in 5mm and press. Fold in 5mm again and press again. Stitch this hem in place.
On the bottom long edge of the skirt fold 1cm and press. Fold in another 1cm and press. Stitch this hem in place.
After hemming your skirt should be 60cm wide. With a fabric pen or fabric chalk, you’re going to mark the edge you’ll gather. Mark at 22cm and 38cm. This means your 60cm length will be visually divided into a 22cm section, a 16 cm section and another 22cm section. 22+16+22=60cm
These marks will help us line up the skirt with the side seams when gathering to help keep gathers even.
First blurry picture. Sorry.
Maths: You can skip this if you don’t care where those numbers come from. If you plan to make a fuller skirt with a longer rectangle it’s worth reading.
The bottom edge of the top you assembled is 45cm long. First wrap section 16.5cm, back, 12cm, second wrap section 16.5=45cm. 16.5+12+16.5= 45cm
We’re taking a 60cm long fabric and will gather it until it’s 45cm. ( 60 divided by 40 is aprox 1.35. 60cm is aprox 135% the size of 45cm. 6
Because we want to try to evenly distribute the gathers it helps to mark the skirt fabric where it will join the seams on the top.
16.5x1.35=22.275 (we’ll round that to 22cm) 12 x 1.35=16.2 (we round that to 16) and check the math 22+16+22=60cm.
If you want a fuller skirt, say 70cm after hemming. 70 divided by 45 is aprox. 1.55. Multiply 16.5 and 12 by that 1.55…double check…and that’s where you’ll mark.
Maths over
To gather the skirt we need to sew two seams along the top edge of the skirt, closer to the edge than 1cm (our seam allowance). Keep the seams wide (3 or 4 stitch setting), don’t back stitch and don’t cross the seams.
We’ll be machine joining the to the outer-shell of the wrap top, NOT the lining…but first, gathering.
If you’ve never gathered using this method, enjoy a youtube tutorial.
I’ve used a red thread in the bobbin and a black thread on top to make it easier to see. If you do this, make sure your different colored threads are the same thread weight/thickness.
You’ll be pulling at the bobbin threads (the threads on the underside) to gather the fabric.
You’ll hold the fabric in one hand and pull the bobbin threads with the other. There’s a lot of moving the gathers with your fingers so they are evenly distributed. You do this at both edges of the fabric.
Use the marks on the skirt and the seams of the wrap top to make sure the gathers are evenly spread along the skirt.
All pinned! Now sew the skirt to the outer fabric (right sides together).
I prefer not to sew over pins, to reduce the chance of my machine needle breaking. Instead I stitch slowly and remove the pins right before they’re about to go under the presser foot.
Blurry picture. Sorry! The skirt is now joined to the outer shell of the top. Press so the raw edges are pointing up.
Now turn the edges of the lining under, pin, and whip-stitch it by hand. Turn your piece over from time to time to make sure your stitches don’t show from the outside. Steam or press when finished to smooth out wrinkles on the outside.
We are so close to being finished!
Now let’s tackle how to close the wrap dress on your doll.
How to close the dress, 3 methods.
Top Stitched Ribbon Method.
I’m trying to keep >me< out of my tutorial…but this fabric is a shout out to Ebony. I didn’t have any more skeleton/spooky fabric in doll scale so I couldn’t have Moana being a toddler POC goth (a group seriously under-represented in visuals) so I made her Rockability instead.
This ties at the side. I wish it tied in back. I’ll give measurements for both a side tie and back tie.
Both use 1 meter of ribbon.
SIDE TIE (pictured): 42 cm ribbon. Start stitching after 18cm (the tie part) from the edge to a little more more than the center of the back to the edge of the “top” wrap (24cm stitched to dress).
Back Tie (not pictured): 52cm ribbon. Start stitching after 28cm (the tie part) to a little more more than the center of the back to the edge of the “top” wrap (24cm stitched to dress).
SIDE TIE (pictured): Now take the 58cm ribbon. Tuck the end in and start stitching it from the other edge of the dress to 24cm. You should have 34cm to tie with.
Back Tie (not pictured): Now take the 48cm ribbon. Tuck the end in and start stitching it from the other edge of the dress to 24cm. You should have 24cm to tie with.
Last, use Velcro/Magic tape or a snap to keep the inner flap in place. Put the dress on the doll and mark where to attach with fabric pen/chalk.
FINISHED!
Snaps or Velcro/Magic tape method.
This was my first draft of the pattern so the top fit is a little off.
This is the easiest version. Put the dress on the doll. Mark where notions should go with fabric pen/chalk.
These snaps are probably too small for little fingers. They are all I had on hand. You’ll know what your child can use.
Stitch notions on the inside to lining and on the outside through the outer layer or both layers. You could also use a loop and button on the outside. Go crazy. It’s a FREE pattern.
FINISHED!
Out of Order Mixed Method
This is a fuller skirt made from a 70cm long rectangle.
This method is out of order because I thought if it AFTER finishing the dress body. It would have been easier to do some of these steps while putting it together.
This method uses two 30cm long ribbons. I opened the seams at the edge of the wrap top, inserted the ribbons and stitched them in place.
I SHOULD have just stitched the ribbons in place when joining the lining to the outer fabric at the neckline and arm holes
In a perfect world I would have used light blue bobbin thread and red top thread to reduce stitch visibility.
Then I opened the seams under one arm and made a button hole. The button hole pictured is really rough. If I give this to anyone I’ll un-stitch and re-do this buttonhole.
But I think threading the ribbon through the button-hole might be too difficult for little kids. Use your common sense and what you know about your kid’s ability to manipulate objects. I’m a grown woman with good co-ordination and object permanence.
Then to wear it you just thread one ribbon through the button-hole and tie in back.
Once you’ve stitched under both arm holes press those seams open.
After hemming your skirt should be 60cm wide. With a fabric pen or fabric chalk, you’re going to mark the edge you’ll gather. Mark at 22cm and 38cm. This means your 60cm length will be visually divided into a 22cm section, a 16 cm section and another 22cm section. 22+16+22=60cm
Do It Yourself: WFU 