Re-lining a coat: Part two.

We start here:

Half of the lining/interlining is attached to a dress form. Half of the lining and interlining was carefully seam ripped to make pattern pieces. With tailor chalk I marked each piece (b, A1, a2,f1,f2) for Back, arm 1… Then I set to cutting.

 

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I’d been extra careful in seamripping. all tears were there prior to this project.

I cut the lining the same way each time:

  • Top layer, old lining with right side of fabric face down.
  • second layer fabric right side down
  • third layer fabric right side up

Then I would chalk label the new lining: the layer right side down was A, like Aa1 and the right side up was B, like Ba1.

I figured L and R would confuse me so I used A and B to know which parts would go together on which hemisphere of the lining. I did the same for the interlining.

 

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All lining and interlining cut. Allergies insane from 60 year old fabrics.

Then using the still assembeled half as a guide I began to put the lining and interlining together. There was a lot of hand and machine basting to prevent the fabrics from slipping around. In parts the sewing must go though 4 layers (two of interlining and two of lining.

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Body of lining done.

The sleeves were tricky. I’ve almost always worked with sleeves that have virtually no ease. For these I had to adjust the ease (This just means the sleeve is bigger than it needs to be to attach at the shoulders so you have to carefully gather it until it fits correctly) a great deal. Lots of gathering with a wide stitch and basting and adjusting.

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Next up: Prepping the jacket and attaching the lining. The jacket deserves some cleaning up before the lining goes in.

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